The at-home spa market is an important one in Europe, where the cost of having professional treatments is less affordable and culturally less of a norm compared to markets such as Asia. Traditionally positioned as a luxury investment or a pampering experience, beauty spas and salons have, nevertheless, played a large part in influencing beauty product innovation.

Time pressure is one of the main reasons that prevent Europeans from visiting salons for beauty treatments. Only a third of British women state they have time for pampering, compared to around half of German and Italian women, according to Kantar Worldpanel. When questioned further about whether they have visited a beauty spa in the past six months, the percentages plummet to a European average of just 3%. Italian women are most likely to have visited a spa in the past six months (6%), but this is still extremely low.

Somewhat higher, but still low, is the percentage of European women who have had any professional treatment in the past six months (35%). Facials, pedicures, manicures and hair removal/waxing are the main treatments women get done professionally, especially in Italy, where women are also more inclined to go for a dermatologist consultation. Eyelash and eyebrow tinting are fairly popular among German women, while the French prefer eyebrow waxing and facials.

Just because European women do not visit salons or spas regularly does not mean they are not interested in beauty treatments, as many look to recreate a spa experience at home. According to Datamonitor’s Consumer 2014 survey, 77% of European women stated cost as the biggest benefit of doing beauty treatments at home versus going to a spa/salon. More than four in ten European women also gave other benefits, such as saving time (47%), convenience (47%) and greater privacy (42%).

“Recognizing this consumer sentiment, beauty product manufacturers are developing products that promise results akin to those achieved by professional makeup artists, nail technicians or even dermatologists and dentists,” noted Ramaa Chipalkatti, senior analyst, Datamonitor. “Innovation is therefore heading toward more premium and masstige product offerings.”

Spa in a Jar
PZ Cussons’ Sanctuary Spa has at its strap- line: “your very own spa in a jar,” which sells across Europe and in September 2015 will be expanding into more countries, including Slovakia. The luxurious face, bath and body formulations were inspired by the famous Sanctuary Spa in Covent Garden, London, which closed in 2014.

Meanwhile, Sanctuary Spa goes from strength to strength and is one of the leading spa brands in retail. Jacquline Burchell, global marketing and product development director, describes how every product is about making women feel wonderful in some way: “We know that women today are looking for sensorial textures and elevated usage experiences. That is something we strive for in all our formulations, offering a plethora of products from sorbets, soufflés and butters to products that warm and cool. Women are also seeking more efficacy from their products than ever before, so not only do they need to feel fantastic in use, but also deliver on performance.”

Best sellers include the original Salt Scrub in a kilner (canning) jar and the Long Lasting Moisture body butter range.
“We also have a skin care hero, our Therapist Secret Facial Oil which is 100% natural and keeps skin hydrated and supple,” explained Burchell.

This year, Sanctuary Spa is extending its range into candles and reed diffusers and is expecting the new Autumn & Winter Home Fragrance Collection to appeal to women looking to create relaxing moods and a cozy atmosphere.

High-Ed Solutions
In the prestige spa market, British brand Elemis is celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2015 with the launch of a silver edition of its best-selling Pro-Collagen Marine Cream, which is distinguished by its light gel texture based around a marine algae that is said to help balance the skin’s metabolism and encourage skin cells to renew themselves.

Elemis has an extensive program of new product launches and last month added Pro-Radiance Illuminating Eye Balm, which is based on natural actives including Bird of Paradise flower, which is shown to reduce the appearance of dark circles and puffiness, along with optical blurring powders to fade and soften the appearance of fine lines. Omega-rich apricot kernel oil nourishes the delicate eye contour area. The product also features a cooling zamac head that glides around the eye contour and provides a soothing and refreshing sensation, according to Elemis.

Devices Give Results
Meanwhile, electronic and battery-operated beauty devices are rapidly gaining popularity for home use and mirror the kind of professional treatments that many consumers would not consider paying for, such as hair removal, manicures/pedicures and facial cleansing, to more sophisticated anti-aging, pigmentation/scar removal, anti-cellulite, hair volumizing and even airbrush makeup claims.

Tellingly, Datamonitor’s 2014 consumer research found that on average, a third of European consumers use electrical or battery-powered beauty and grooming devices at home, with a further 29% saying they will consider using them in the future.

“The research also indicates facials, body treatments and skin lightening/tanning treatments as a promising innovation opportunity for at-home beauty devices,” said Chipalkatti, who predicts that with facial cleansing and skin maintenance already quite well established, facial contouring and airbrush makeup are emerging as lucrative opportunities.

An example is NuFace, which launched a handheld facial toning device for home use a few years back, described as a “non-surgical microcurrent facial lift,” and claiming instant positive changes in appearance. Another innovative beauty device is Airbase airbrush makeup system that costs around $150 and includes a high definition airbrush and different shades and products, such as foundation and blusher.

“While such products typically require a substantial outlay from the consumer, nonetheless they are cheaper in the long run when compared to corresponding sessions with professionals,” noted Chipalkatti, who points out the challenge that remains for marketers to introduce and educate consumers as to the merits of such devices. Going forward, consumer interest in spa experiences is likely to fuel demand for high quality performance products and devices people can use at home. New avenues for growth will include greater personalization and better functionality than what is currently available.

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Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
Tel: +44 1865 764918

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher focusing on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles. Every year in April, she publishes The Premium Market Report, focusing on trends in the UK premium beauty markets.
www.thepremiummarketreport.com